1. The Descent of the Scala Regia

The start is an early one, for the ceremony was a long one. The procession is assembled in the Vatican palace, on the piano nobile—which is to say, on an upper storey. That means that the procession has to descend the great staircase which lead from the bronze doors into Bernini's great piazza to get to St Peter's. Because the date was 4th November, the procession did not, as it might have done, go out of the bronze doors into the square and enter the basilica through the main entrance. Instead it turned right and went in the short way. Which is to say, the long way, only not as long as if they'd gone the other way. If I'm making sense.

The new pope is upstairs still, above the Cortile San Damaso, near the Sistine Chapel, in the Sala della Falda, getting dressed in the long falda, a special papal vestment worn under the alb and looking rather like a sort of alb extension, making a train several feet long. Once this is on, he moves to the next room, the Sala degli Paramenti, where the cardinals assistant are already vested, and help the pope on with the alb, and stole. On top of this is the papal turbo-cope called the mantum—just like an ordinary cope, but longer. Both the falda and the mantum absolutely require the help of others simply to be able to walk. Then the golden mitre goes on. On another point, Pope John may well have had some breakfast, for his predecessor had relaxed the fasting laws, and it was going to be at least three hours until his communion.

When the ceremony has built up enough head of steam to be beyond the point of no return, the papal Ceremoniere, here Mgr Enrico Dante, an interesting man in his own rite—look at the link—gives the command extra!  ('out you go!'), says a quick prayer, crosses his fingers, tries to remember if he needs to go to the loo (too late now) and the great leviathan procession—500 or so strong—moves off.

In front are the various papal military guards. Most prominent, in the early 19th century cavalry gear, are the Noble Guard. they were founded in 1801, when Pope Pius VII still had a cavalry, but now they have grown rather tubby. Pope Paul VI was to sack the lot. Then there are the Palatine Guard. At the close of the second world war, there were 2000 of these, and they had provided useful work during the Nazi occupation of Rome. Paul VI was to sack them, too. And of course, there are the Swiss Guard, too familiar to us to need further description.

You will after the guards see various papal chamberlains in their renaissance costumes.

These are followed (1.28) by members of the major ancient (male) religious orders. First come the mendicants, then the monks, and then the canons regular. No order is represented that was founded after the fifteenth century, for in the sixteenth St Ignatius asked that his Jesuits be let off, as the ceremony took too much of their precious time.  No other order thereafter was admitted. The Roman clergy now follow, carrying the crosses and umbrellas of the basilicas. After them two Swiss guard walk not with halberds, but with canes with little ribbons. This is where our film begins. This starts the procession of the papal household. The papal crossbearer goes first, with lay chamberlains of honour behind, chamberlains of spada e cappa (sword and cape), dressed in black Spanish court dress of the 16th century. The pope's preacher (a Capuchin) and confessor (a Servite) follow, and the other clergy of the household, including consistorial advocates. Judges follow, of the Rota and Signatura, with the Master of the Sacred Palaces (a Dominican) walking alone behind them. He looks after the Index and was the Censor of the Papal States.

Behind these are carried (at about 1.42) the precious mitre and the tiara for the coronation later on.

At 1.58 or so, the front of the procession enters the great narthex of the basilica, with the great equestrian statue of Constantine behind. At 2.13 you can see the throne prepared, and several clerics waiting nervously. Then we return to the stairs where the clergy are now pouring down. First come the vestments for the Papal Mass—we don't see this bit, I'm afraid—, then the thurible and seven acolytes with the Apostolic Subdeacon. Then come the penitentiaries of St Peter's wearing a chasuble over their cassock and carrying their symbol, a staff. Then come the abbots, the Commendatore of the Santo Spirito Hospital (who oversees all hospital chaplaincies). Now come the bishops, accompanied by their priest secretaries. Then the cardinals in their cappae magnae—clearly the camera has trouble with the brilliance of the colour—accompanied by both a secretary and a train-bearer. The macebearers and the Noble Guard come next, until at about 4.06, you can just see the Sedia Gestatoria at the head of the stairs beginning to appear. This is the Papal portable throne, and you will see the new Pope nervously descending, surrounded by at least fifty attendants. In front of him walk the heads of the Colonna and Orsini families and, together, and set apart, the Cardinals who will assist as Deacon and Subdeacon at the throne.

There is a bit of a pause at 5.00 (for the bearers to change hands?—'whoops, nearly lost you there, ha ha ha') and you can see the Cardinal Assistants at the Throne, Cardinals Canali (on our left) and the famous Ottaviani (on the right) pausing to look back and say 'come on, we're late!'.

Blessed Pope John was famously uncomfortable in the sedia gestatoria. When first lifted up, he was asked if he was all right. 'Hm: it's windy up here!' was the reply. And reportedly he invariably felt sea-sick after any time spent travelling in it. This was not the case with Pope Pius XII who would on occasion leap athletically around, leaning out to shake hands with people (presumably to the consternation of the bearers). Pope John just sat very, very, very still, managing an occasional watery smile and a feeble blessing and regretting having had that extra cornetto for breakfast. That being said, it was not he who abolished the sedia.